It also covers how to connect the HS200 to Alexa. You can learn how to install the HS200 in a multiple switch receptacle by watching the setup tutorial below. The wiring there was a little more complicated because the hot wires were daisy chained from switch to switch. So I started with the one switch a couple years ago to control a side entry light and then decided to replace the switch controlling my front lights that was nested in a 4 gang switch plate. This has been working great for setting up my outdoor light timing and is easy to adjust when the seasons change and it gets darker earlier and so on. The kasa app is designed very well and let's you schedule multiple on and off times on a 7 day programmable schedule. Installation was straight forward like a typical switch with some additional steps required to connect it to my home Wi-Fi network and optionally pair the device with Alexa for voice control. That is what got me looking at Wi-Fi smart switches.Īfter doing some research, I decided to try the TP-Link HS200 Kasa smart light switch to control my outside house lights. The GE switch worked fine for a little while, but every time there was a power outage it would lose it's programming which was very frustrating. Turn the power back on and test the switch.To turn on and off my outside lights on a schedule I started with a simple GE switch with built in digital timer that you had to set by pushing buttons on the switch itself which wasn't very fun for the initial setup.Attach the wall plate-some smart switches don't include a wall plate-you might need to buy it separately.(It should come with screws, but you can repurpose the ones from the old switch too.) Fasten the switch in place with the correct screws.Then install and secure both switches after the wiring. You can replace or extend the box with one from the hardware store, but old boxes aren't easy to remove without damaging the drywall. Follow the Kasa app instructions to wire your smart switch kit with the 3-Way wiring method. Know that smart switches are bulkier than normal light switches-don't try to force them into a box that's too small.Starting with the excess wires, push the new switch into the electrical box until it rests on the mounting holes.After attaching the wires, give them a little tug to make sure they're secure-you don't want them popping out as you push the wires and switch back into the gang box.If you're installing a lot of switches that don't come with connectors, then 2-conductor and 3-conductor lever nuts will make an easy, solid, safe connection.Many switches come with connectors like wire nuts and lever nuts to make the process easier.The switch may use slots, screws, or multicolored wires to attach to your wiring setup.Attach the wires to their corresponding spots on the smart switch-the majority of switches will have labels on the switch, but you can also find a diagram in the user manual.Installing the smart light switch is essentially the reverse of removing the old switch: Quick tip: If you see only one bundle of wires coming from a single side of the switch box (even if one wire is white), you don't have a neutral wire. Traveler wire: If you see a red wire coming off the opposite side of the switch from the hot wires, it's probably part of a three-way setup, so your smart light switch might not be compatible.Ground wire: The ground wire is usually a green wire or plain copper wire that attaches to another screw on the metal part of the switch.It's neutral because it doesn't connect to the switch and carries the current back to the breaker to complete the circuit. Neutral wire: The neutral wire is usually a gray or white wire-often two wires with a wire nut in the back of the gang box.The top screw (closest to the switch's on position) is the load wire, which comes down from the light fixture-it's often a black wire but can be red.The bottom screw (closest to the switch's off position) is the line wire, which comes up from the circuit breaker.Turning the switch on connects the two wires to allow an electrical current to flow up to the light fixture. You should be ready to go You have part of it finished. Hot wires: One side of the outlet will have two screws holding two black wires. Connect each of the two black wires from the switch to the live wires probably black Connect the Green wire to the ground line (bare or green wire) Connect the White wire to the neutral (white wire) Mount the new switch in the box Put the Wall plate on Turn the breaker on.Gently pull out the existing switch so you can look at the wiring.
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